Frequently Asked Questions

We understand fully well what a homebuilder like you has to go through, we have a fair idea about the confusions, contradictions and complications that can confront you,tricky questions in search of simple answers...

Pre-empting some of them here's what you may have sought to ask and, corresponding to each, the views.

1. Home Building

Q) WHEN MORE SPACE IS NEEDED IN MY HOME, DO I BUILD UPON THE EXISTING CONSTRUCTION OR MOVE OUT TO BUILD IN ANOTHER PLACE?

A) It is cheaper to build on an existing home by putting up, say an additional storey, than to move out and expand. There may be some cases where land is available adjacent to the existing building so one might start the foundation here. Building on an existing home does not involve cost of a foundation which is quite significant. We would ask you to consider these variables before making your final decision:
  

• Does the present foundation support an additional storey? You need a structural engineer's/architect's opinion first.
• For reinforcing the existing foundation to build up an additional storey, find out the cost and compare the same with that of a new foundation in case you wish to expand out.
• Check with the local municipal or other applicable building rules about the height restrictions in case you wish to add an additional storey.
• If you build up, you may have to add bracing to the existing house's walls, which means removing part or all of the siding.
• Expanding out into the adjacent space close to existing building means reducing your yard space.
• Check out if there is additional space to store / stack the building materials - cement, aggregates, sand, steel, bricks. Also, during concreting operations, how easily can you transport or place concrete.
• In case of home extension, get your plans sanctioned from appropriate authorities.
  

Q) HOW MUCH ADDITIONAL COST IS INVOLVED IN THE EXTENSION OF MY HOME?

A) It is very difficult to give a universal reply in this case as labour and material costs vary from place to place, region to region. As a very indicative guide, cost of construction would be between Rs 400 to Rs 750 per sq. foot depending on type of finish required. For new constructions, additionally, land costs would vary from place to place, city to city, region to region.

Q) SHOULD I HIRE AN ARCHITECT?

A) Lafarge India strongly recommends that you hire a professional architect before you embark upon hiring a contractor. There are many reasons to this:
a) A good and well-defined plan means that the contractor (or even yourself) along with the help of a labour contractor can easily understand the drawing and the calculations for labour and materials will be done accurately, typically saving you more than the added cost of the design work.
b) The quality of construction will improve substantially since the architect will be monitoring the progress of the work.
c) You reap the benefits of a good and professional design for a long time. Another value addition by an architect is that he or she can not only draw the plans and guide them through the approval process, but also can oversee the construction, monitoring its quality. But keep in mind that plans must be submitted to and be approved by the relevant building authority's office before you can begin a project.

Q) CAN YOU CONVERT COVERED SPACES INTO ANOTHER ROOM?

A) Structurally, such conversions are generally quite straightforward. It will change the elevation of the house. You are recommended to be fully aware of all the options since such a change might affect a lot of other installations. It is advisable to consult an architect who will invariably have a wealth of ideas for you to draw upon.

Q) IS IT ADVISABLE TO BUY AN EXISTING HOUSE OR HAVE ONE BUILT?

A) Building your own house offers many advantages. It gives you the flexibility to plan an efficient and beautiful home as per your requirement with the help of an architect. Building your own home can also be very rewarding . You may save more money in building your home. In fact home-building is a great learning experience. After locating a piece of land on which you would like to build, contact a local architect who is experienced with design and construction issues in your area and can also provide initial site evaluation services. It is important that you should keep your design simple and efficient. Your construction costs can vary significantly depending on many factors, which may include your region, the site, the design, local construction activity, as well as other factors.

Q) WHAT SHOULD ONE ASK THE CONTRACTOR?

A) Find out: How busy the contractor is; how much time can he devote to YOUR project ? How does he intend to supervise your house - on his own/ through his assistant ? How many jobs does he undertake at a time? Does he finish on time and budget or within reason? What type of contract does the contractor go in for - cost plus, lump sum, etc.? Does he have a reputation concerning quality --check for references ? Contractors in general have some standard building products and methods they insist on. What are his, if any? Does the contractor have a license and insurance? Could he provide you copies of them ?

Q) HOW CAN I BE A SELF-CONTRACTOR FOR MY HOUSE?

A) Many a time homeowners prefer to be the self-contractor with the idea of saving money. One can save money, but one must weigh that against the unforeseen circumstances that may crop up. You will have to line up all sub-contractors - electrical, plumbing, masonry, painting, etc., and oversee their crews/work-force from time to time.

Q) HOW MUCH DO ARCHITECTS AND ENGINEERS CHARGE FOR THEIR WORK?

A) Our guide - HomeBuilding Made Easy - would give you a fair idea of this. But, it differs from professional to professional. Please ask them directly.

Q) HOW MUCH WILL THE CIVIL CONSTRUCTION OF A NEW HOUSE COST ?

A) Prices can vary widely, for materials and labor. For very rough calculations, plan on Rs 350 to Rs 650 per sq.ft. for a new house, from the start to finish excluding cost of land. Extension costs could be slightly lower.

Q) WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LOAD BEARING WALLS AND COLUMN SUPPORTING BUILDINGS?

A) A load-bearing wall bears part of the structural load of the building. A column supporting building would have columns (pillars) arising out of foundations which bears the load of the building. Always ask your structural engineer to check it out for you.

Q) WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE FOUNDATION OF YOUR BUILDING CAVES IN?

A) First call your structural engineer to evaluate the situation. Once the cause is found the engineer can probably recommend a solution.

Q) FOR HOME EXTENSIONS OR REMODELLING, HOW DEEP SHOULD THE FOOTINGS BE ?

A) The depth of footings and design of a foundation depend on the size of the structure, ground water levels in the ground, and soil composition. Check with your architect. You must check with your architect / structural engineer for local requirements. The footings must be constructed on undisturbed soil or on dirt that has been properly compacted.

Q) WHY DO CONCRETE FOUNDATIONS CAST VERY RECENTLY START CRACKING?

A) The chief reason for a cracked slab, or cracked foundation wall is soil movement. Earth can sink under a foundation for several reasons, including insufficient compacting and voids being created by underground water flows. Conversely, certain soils become so expansive when wet that they swell enough to lift and crack a foundation. Cracks can also be caused by incorrect cement mixture, lack of sufficient reinforcing wire or bars, or poor site preparation. If it's a new foundation, call the contractor and say you want it done right. Before it's over, you may end up calling a soil engineer and structural engineer.

2. Home Buying

Q) WHAT IS CARPET AREA , BUILT-UP AREA & SUPER BUILT-UP AREA?

A) Carpet Area: This is the area of the apartment/building which does not include the area covered by the walls. Built up Area: The carpet area plus the area of the walls. Super Built up Area :This includes the built up area alongwith the area under common spaces such as the lobby, lifts, stairs, etc.

Q) DOES THE AGREEMENT FOR SALE HAVE TO BE REGISTERED?

A) The agreement for sale between the builder and purchaser has to be registered as required by the law of the land. One must register within four months from the date of execution of the Agreement at the office of the Sub-Registrar appointed by the State Government, under the relevant Registration act.

Q) UNDER WHOSE NAME DO I PURCHASE THE STAMP PAPER AND WHO PAYS THE STAMP DUTY DURING A TRANSACTION OF BUYING AND SELLING?

A) The stamp paper is generally purchased in the name of the executor to the agreement. Generally, the buyer pays the Stamp duty unless agreed otherwise.

Q) DOES THE PROPERTY HAVE TO BE INSURED?

A) You will have to ensure that the property is duly and properly insured for fire and other appropriate hazards, as required by banks/financial institutions with whom you may wish to mortgage the property, during the pendency of loan. In such cases, the beneficiary of the policy will be the concerned institution offering the loan. Even otherwise, it is advisable to insure your property for hazards and fire.

3. Home Loans

Q) WHAT IS THE LOAN AMOUNT WHICH CAN BE SANCTIONED?

A) Banks / financial institutions sanction loan amounts based on certain criteria depending upon your repayment capacity (which takes into account your age, qualifications, assets, liabilities, stability of occupation, savings history) and according to your income. You can include income of other members in your family too, in case you want to increase the amount of your loan. The maximum loan that can be sanctioned varies with housing finance companies. Generally, the maximum loan amount is 80 to 85% of the cost of your home.

Q) WHAT IS MEANT BY AN EMI (EQUATED MONTHLY INSTALMENT)?

A) An EMI is the monthly amount to be repaid to the bank or financial institution against a loan amount borrowed for a fixed period of time. An EMI has two components, the principal component and the interest component. There are two methods - reducing balance method and the monthly reducing balance. The Reducing Balance method reduces the principal amount already paid from the outstanding loan amount. Every time you make a payment, you pay interest on that part of the original principal sum that has remained unpaid till then. The loan carrying the lower EMI for the same tenure is the cheaper option.

Q) WHAT IS PRE-EMI INTEREST?

A) Pending final disbursement, you pay interest on the portion of the loan disbursed. This interest is called pre-EMI interest. Pre-EMI interest is payable every month from the date of each disbursement upto the date of commencement of EMI

Q) WHAT IS A FLOATING INTEREST RATE ?

A) A loan taken on a floating interest rate, is a loan where the interest rate which is payable is linked to the market rate. e.g. the bank lending rate. The interest rate payable by you will also rise and fall as per bank lending rates which may also fluctuate.

Q) WHAT IS A HOME IMPROVEMENT /HOME EXTENSION LOAN ?

A) A home improvement loan is one that is made available to do external works like structural repairs, waterproofing or internal work like tiling and flooring, plumbing, electrical work, painting, etc. A extension loan is one which helps you to meet the expenses of any alteration to the existing building like extension/ modification of your home. One can avail of such a loan facility of a home improvement/extension loan, after obtaining the requisite approvals from the relevant municipal corporation/building authority.

Q) WHAT IS AN ANNUAL REST?

A) Interest is calculated on annual rests. The effective rate of interest varies depending on the term of the loan. For a loan with a term of 15 years, the effective interest rate would be higher by a very small percentage (in terms of a fraction) per annum than the indicated rate of interest.

Q) DO BANKS / FIs ASSIST  IN SELECTING PROPERTY/BUILDING/FLAT OF ONE'S OWN CHOICE?

A) Yes, certain banks/FIs have approved builders and developers and will assist you  of your choice.

Q) WHAT SECURITY DOES ONE PROVIDE AGAINST THE LOAN AMOUNT TO BE BORROWED?

A) Generally, by way of deposit of title deeds and/or such other collateral security as may be necessary. Additionally, if the property is under construction interim security may be required. Collateral or interim security could be assigned to the Bank/ FI where the surrender value is at least equal to the loan amount. It could be other forms of guarantees or pledge of shares acceptable by the bank / FI. One should ensure that there is no existing mortgage or loan or litigation which can affect the title of the property. The title should be clear, marketable and free from encumbrances.

Q) CAN ONE REPAY THE LOAN AHEAD OF SCHEDULE?

A) It is possible to repay a loan ahead of schedule. A form of a penalty termed as a pre-payment penalty is payable to certain institutions.

Q) HOW DOES ONE GET A TAX BENEFIT ON THE LOAN?

A) There is an eligibility for certain tax benefits on principal and interest components of a loan under the Income Tax Act, 1961. Moreover, you can get added tax benefits under Sec 88 on repayment of principal amount.

 

4. Materials

Q) HOW WOULD YOU ASCERTAIN THE QUALITY OF PLYWOOD?

A) Plywood generally holds nails and screws better than oriented strand board. Plywood also holds up better if it gets wet.

Q) WHAT IS THE BEST KIND OF FLOORING TO CHOOSE?

A) Your flooring choice will depend on your preferences, your budget, and where you are going to install it. Here are some of the main choices:
 

• Vinyl tile squares: The least expensive type of flooring, vinyl tiles come in a wide variety of colours and patterns. Since they are impervious to water, relatively easy to clean, and quick to install, they are commonly put in kitchens and bathrooms. As vinyl tile gets old it tends to fade and discolour. It is easily scratched or cut, but individual squares can be removed and replaced.
• Vinyl sheet: Prices range significantly depending on quality. Vinyl sheet flooring is often selected because of attractive patterns and because it covers a large area with no risk of individual tiles working loose at the edges. It is impervious to water but can be cut or scratched easily.
• Laminates: Laminate flooring is constructed of several layers of plastic-type resins compressed under high pressure to a hard fiber or particleboard core, with melamine backing and printed surface. It can be made to appear like different types of wood flooring or even marble and flagstone. It is put together in tongue and groove fashion and is not attached to the subfloor as are standard hardwoods. Many carry a 10 year or more warranty against staining or fading. There is some difference of opinion, even among experts, about whether to use laminate in a place where it will get wet.
• Ceramic tile: Wide range in costs depending on quality, colour, and material. It wears well and is not easily stained. Because it also repels water if the grout is sealed properly, it is widely used for entryways, kitchens, and baths. If installed over wood, it must have solid underlayment that will not flex and subsequently crack the tile. Installing a solid underlayment, however, may raise the finished floor higher than adjacent flooring, causing an uneven transition unless calculated in advance.
• Hardwoods: Hardwood floors cover the spectrum in colour, types of wood, style, and price. They are available as traditional tongue and groove strip and plank to parquet squares. Hardwood floors range from labor-intensive parquet requiring on-site sanding expertise to factory finished products often installed by homeowners themselves. Newer finishes and finishing techniques make wood floors much easier to care for than in the past. Factory-finished floors come in a wide array of patterns and edge treatments. This type of floor can be laid quickly and without sanding dust and odor. Unfinished floors offer a wider choice of wood but require expert sanding and finishing in the house. The final appearance is more dependent on the people doing the sanding and finishing than on the wood itself.

Q) WHAT IS THE BEST OPTION FOR FLOORING?

A) There is no such concept of the best flooring. Each room in ones home could have requirement of separate floorings.

Q) CAN A FLOOR TOPPING BE DONE OVER THE CONCRETE FLOOR IN DAMP AREAS?

A) Damp areas like basement floors will ruin a floor unless necessary precautions are taken. But once these are done, you can put down many types of flooring, including vinyl, ceramic tile, engineered hardwoods, laminates, or carpet. Flooring experts generally recommend against installing traditional strip or plank hardwoods below grade. Engineered or laminate flooring is a better choice in this case.
 

• Carpet: Carpet can be laid in the same manner.
• Vinyl tile: For vinyl tile, skip the 15-pound felt and apply mastic directly to the plywood.
• Ceramic tile: For ceramic tile, nail cement boards to the concrete floor with concrete nails so they won't move, then apply mastic, tile, and grout. If you feel that despite all precautions the basement floor may get wet, put down 2-by-4-inch sleepers, cover with plastic, and then install the plywood as the subfloor.

Q) WHAT TYPE OF SUBFLOORING IS BEST?

A) Preferred subfloors in the cases where ceramic tiles, marble or other stone floors are laid are mortar bed or cement board.

Q) HOW DOES ONE LEVEL A CONCRETE SLAB FLOOR ?

A) To level a concrete floor to install flooring, it is advisable to find a leveling compound, much like a easily trowelable mortar mix. Recommendations of a flooring supply company would also help in this matter. If the concrete has wide cracks, broken pieces, and shows signs of sinking, this indicates a major problem and you should consult a concrete contractor or even a structural engineer

Q) HOW DOES ONE GET  POLISHED FINISH ON CONCRETE SURFACE?

A) This requires labor-intensive work and careful timing. First the concrete is leveled, then bull floated to bring the cream to the top. When the water sheen has disappeared, you must begin repeatedly troweling the slab with a rectangular steel trowel. Repeated steel troweling on firm yet still wet concrete gives it the polished finish. You kneel on a square of plywood while doing this and step to a second square of plywood when you must move. And you must move quickly before the concrete sets too firmly. In other words, this is usually a job for an experienced professional.

Q) WHAT IS THE DISADVANTAGE OF USING CERAMIC TILES?

A) a) Joints can rupture, especially if bedding mortar is not evenly spread out.
b) Size : In a box of 300 x 300 size, variations like 303, 296, etc, can be found.
c) Please read the relevant guides.

Q) HOW DO YOU SAFELY DEAL WITH LEAD BASED PAINT?

A) First, if undisturbed, lead-based paint is not dangerous. Lead cannot be absorbed through the skin. Problems arise when overeager homebuilder decides to sand off the paint as part of a renovation project and breathe in the lead particles. But lead can also be absorbed when children ingest flakes of paint falling from windowsills or around the baseboards. The dust is picked up on their hands as they crawl about or play. It enters their bodies when they put their fingers in their mouths. Even pros wearing respirators can get in trouble if lead flakes fall on the sandwich they are eating during a break. Lead was originally added to paint to make it more durable and easier to spread. Paint prior to 1950 contained large amounts of lead, but the percentage steadily diminished until 1978, when it was banned altogether in house paints. To correct the problem, consider one of these three primary approaches. First, you can have a lead abatement team come in and strip the house. Needless to say, this is expensive. Second, you can cover the walls with paneling, or paint over the walls with special lead-encapsulating paint. Third, especially if the paint is in good condition, is to leave it undisturbed.

Q) WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO STRIP PAINT FROM WOOD?

A) There are a variety of chemical strippers on the market. Some have different applications, so read the instructions carefully before buying. A quality paint store may also be able to offer good advice when you describe your project. Advantage of paint removers in working with old lead-based paint is that it pulls the paint off and seals it in the process so the paint can be properly disposed off. It also eliminates sanding, which is a serious health hazard with lead-based paint. As with all chemical paint strippers, test the results first on

Q) WHAT IS THE LIFE OF THE LAMINATION PAPER WHICH IS BEING COMMONLY USED?

A) a) Generally three - four years.
b) In case of kitchen, one should never use lamination paper on the cooking side, i.e. on the side fumes, oil stains are likely to stick. On the other sides it could last for about 1 - 2 years.

5. Waterproofing

Q) HOW TO PREVENT DAMP IN ROOF AND WALLS?

A) Presently, we advise people who request for such information to meet construction chemical manufacturers who have their own systems like FOSROC, SIKA, CICO, PIDILITE, SAHARA, CALTECH, etc.